ABSTRACT
The purpose of the study was to develop functional garments for physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females (PCWBF) in Benue State, Nigeria. Specifically, the study determined the characteristics and activities of the PCWBF that dictated their garment requirements, garment needs and types preferred by the PCWBF and developed design features needed for the drafting of patterns for functional garments for the PCWBF. Other specific objectives were establishment of average body measurements of PCWBF in small, medium and large sizes, development of basic pattern pieces for the three groups and construction of prototype functional garments (PFG) based on adaptations of the pattern pieces developed. Appropriateness of the PGF on the different sizes of PCWBF was determined by test fitting; fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive attributes were assessed by the users and the judges. Seven research questions and two null hypotheses guided the study. The research design was Research and Development (R & D). Two models: Function, Expressive and Aesthetic (FEA) model and the Universal Design Principles (UDP) guided the study. The population for the study was 9940 and sample was 653 respondents respectively. The instruments for data collection were Garment Needs Assessment Questionnaire (GNAQ), Body Measurement Chart (BMC), Observation Checklist (OCL) and Garment Fit Assessment Questionnaire (GFAQ). Reliability of GNAQ and GFAQ were tested: inter- rater reliability Coefficient for section A of GNAQ tested using Kendall’s W Coefficient of Concordance was 0.773. Internal consistency for sections B and C using Cronbach Alpha Coefficients yielded
0.643 and 0.764 respectively. Internal consistency for GFAQ were 0.774(fit), 0.688 (comfort), 0.854 (Aesthetics) and 0.725 (expressive) respectively. Data collected were analyzed using percentages and means. One –way ANOVA was used to test the two null hypotheses at 0.05 levels of significance. Results showed that PCWBF have curved spines, disproportionate torsos and limbs that may be dysfunctional. Garment needs of PCWBF were characterized by need for donning and doffing and concealment of deformed parts of body, emotional, psychological and physical independence indicated by 55.4%, 32.6% and 69.0% PCWBF respectively. Preferred garment designs were ¾ Length, free and short sleeve lengths, cotton fabrics, dull floral colours with aesthetic and expressive features. Size categorization of PCWBF were large (58.4%), medium (26.9%), small (14.7%). A total of 72 basic block patterns were drafted for small, medium and large sizes each for trouser, skirts, blouses, gowns. Thirteen prototype functional garments (PFG) were developed by adapting the basic blocks. All fourteen functional and aesthetic designs were rated above satisfactory (4± 0.33) five expressive designs were rated above satisfactory (3.67 ± 0.5). There were significant differences (p < 0.05) between users and judges on physical requirements for concealment of deformity; responses of judges on colour of fabrics needed for PFG for the PCWBF. Recommendations included: Therapy for PCWBF in-patients should include teachings by nurses and Home Economics Extension Agents on functional garment usage. Ready- to- wear functional garments should form parts of the discharge kit for PCWBF on discharge from hospital. Extracts from this study should be included for teaching clothing students especially tertiary institutions.
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
Background of the Study
Clothes are complex but very important aspect of everyone’s life. The quest for suitable clothing for individuals in various endeavours of life is old. Clothes encompass all forms of dresses/ garments, ornaments, foot and head coverings worn on the body for various purposes. Carroll (2001) documented that beginning in the 1940s in the United States of America medical professionals started to examine the relationship between clothing and physical disabilities. Carroll (2001) further noted that clothing is an important facet of human constructed environment surrounding an individual and therefore has bearing on the quality of life. Presently in Nigeria, the health sector and the entire society are concerned about the wellbeing of the physically challenged. This is evidenced by the awakening of different governments to the needs of this group of people. For instance, Ebonyi State government offers automatic employment to disabled graduates of tertiary institutions (Stober, 2009). The federal government through the Ministry for Women Affairs and Social development in conjunction with National Bureau of Statistics is taking a census of all persons with disabilities in Nigerian to enable effective planning for their integration into the society (Michael, 2009). Ikoni and Dura (2011) documented that the National President of Persons with Disability (PD) confirmed the commencement of the formulation of national policies aimed at integrating Persons with Disability into governance. Correct, functional garments has direct bearing with the effectiveness of the Physically Challenged as they get integrated into the society and get engaged in different works of life.
Until recently there has been much controversy on what terminology is appropriate to holistically accommodate without damaging the personality of people with disabilities. Hence, different terminologies were used to describe those with physical impairments especially in relation to their garments. The terminologies include physically handicapped
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(Shannon and Reich, 1979), people with physical limitations (Reich and Shannon, 1980), people with special needs (Lamb 1991), physically disabled (Klerk and Ampousah 1996). More recent terminologies include persons with physical challenges, persons with disabilities (Carroll 2001, Chase and Quinn 2003). The argument is that the term physical disability psychologically opens the possibility for personal potential in all human beings, whether able-bodied or handicapped. Handicap is a measure of the individuals own self- perception; an able bodied person may feel ‘handicapped’ while a person with disability may not feel ‘handicapped’ (Chase and Quinn 2003).
Different types of physical disabilities or challenges exist among human beings. Stanford (2000) classified physical disabilities as follows:
Congenital Disabilities, for example Physical Cerebral Palsy, Spinal Bifida, Cystic Fibrosis, Down Syndrome. These originate from birth due to known, unknown or unidentifiable reasons.
Acquired Disabilities, for example, Spinal Injury, Multiple Sclerosis, Broken limbs, Bone fractures, Alzheimer’s disease (Dementia), arising from infections of immune system, worn out state of the human body and sometimes as a result of accident; natural or unnatural.
Developmental Disabilities or Learning disabilities for example Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD), Dyslexia, Mental retardation, learning disorder resulting from brain injury.
Reduced or impaired mobility resulting in sitting on wheelchair or bedridden may be the result of disease, spinal cord injury, stroke, amputation, accident or impact and the effect of these challenges are rarely identical. The wheelchair bound or bedridden person lives a relatively sedentary life. Chase and Quinn (2003) documented that body deformations such as spinal curvatures, disparity in length and size of limbs are associated with people sitting on wheelchair or using crutches or bedridden; each person may have peculiar body shapes.
All states of human disabilities in one or the other could hamper complete utilization of part of the human body effectively and therefore has a bearing on the effective and convenient use of garments. Garments are forms of clothes, including gowns, skirts, blouses, shirts or tops, and trousers specially constructed to protect the body from the weather and other environmental hazards, promote health and safety and improve job efficiency. Different degrees of physical disability or physical challenges have peculiar needs of special garments referred to as functional garments. Functional garments are specially constructed body coverings using fabrics that are effective in meeting the specific needs of the wearers in attending to different activities. Sproles and Burns (1994) averred that all clothing (including garments) worn by people perform intrinsic and social- psychological functions. The intrinsic functions of clothing outlined by Sproles and Burns (1994) are; protection, modesty, immodesty and adornment. All of the four intrinsic functions performed by clothing are relevant to the physically challenged person.
Social-psychological functions of clothes, termed the functionality of clothes attend to the following needs;
need to be up-to-date
need to adjust to a changing society
desire to escape boredom
need for symbolic differentiation
need for social affiliation.
Chase and Quinn (2003) asserted that it is important to consider both the physical need and limitations of the individual as well as the psychological impact that a disability can have on that person while designing garments for the physically challenged person. All human beings develop their first sense of self from their own bodies. The physically challenged persons understand ‘who they are’ based on what they can do on a physical level. A person’s self-perception is strongly affected by how the society views him or her. The two
combined perceptions, physical and social, result in an individual’s self-esteem. Chase and Quinn (2003) noted that when a person becomes disabled, the perception of self is often confused, damaged or even lost. Becoming disabled can be equated to even death. The person goes through grieve and mourning. The process results in some sort of resolution and acceptance of the disability and a willingness to rebuild a sense of self and self-esteem. The individual wishes to look normal again. Consciousness and concern of a patient about clothing and appearance is an indication of psychological recovery (Chase and Quinn,
2003). Appropriate clothing, according to Breza (2007) provides emotional satisfaction for the patients and aids the healing process. Ikoni and Dura (2011) noted that disability is a major cause of social exclusion. Wheelchair bound females, and bedridden people require special clothing for fulfilling both intrinsic and socio- psychological needs such as comfort, ease of donning and doffing, as well as ease in attending to basic daily needs (BDN).
All people have basic human needs; meeting these needs provides satisfaction and enjoyment in life and clothing helps to meet some of these needs. Carroll (2001) reiterated that research in social and psychological context have proved how people with physical disabilities perceive their clothing needs and how external people perceive their clothing needs. Further experiments conducted on people with physical disabilities revealed four reasons why people with disabilities wear clothes were:
(a) Concealment; covering undesirable parts of the body
(b) Deflection to other body attribute less discrediting than their disability
(c) Compensation, expression of mastery in an area that is close to the person with disabilities
(d) Emphasis of social uniqueness of subjects’ situation (uniqueness of disability). Carroll (2001) argued that parallels exist between the reasons for wearing clothes by people with disabilities and people without disabilities. Chase and Quinn (2003) reaffirmed the need for compensation; a parallel to protection as reflected in choice of appropriate texture
of fabric that should cushion or suit the wheelchair user. The choice of fabric should be comfortable and not abrasive to the body. All special garment needs for persons with physical disabilities or challenges can be met through designing (Chase and Quinn 2003).
Garment fashion for the physically challenged and bedridden female (PCWBF) require updating to enable them feel fulfilled in the society where they had been long forgotten. The need of the PCWBF for new social integration into the society place a demand on garment designers to update their garment designs that will enable them function properly at their points of integration. The old idea of a disregarding or discarding a wheelchair bound person or bedridden individual is fast eroding especially as these group of people make undaunted effort at being recognized by the government.
Designing is aimed at creating a beautiful object that possesses both aesthetics and functionality. Designing is more than just creativity; it entails conceptualization of the needs of the wearer and accommodating the solution to those needs in the design. For instance, in considering the functionality of a designed garment for a physically challenged person, the designer focuses on the physical requirements in dressing that are the results of a particular disability (Chase and Quinn, 2003).The aesthetic aspect of the design; termed the elements of design is viewed as interplay of line, form (shape and space), texture and colour of the garment and other materials used on the garment. These elements of design must be applied artistically. The artistic guidelines that dictate the use of the elements of design are: balance, proportion, emphasis, rhythm and harmony. The elements and principles of design properly applied work together to bring about beauty and effectiveness (functionality) of the designed functional garment for the physically challenged. Designing is the first step in garment development.
Garment development process consist several steps: identification of the needs of the wearers, drafting the patterns and construction of the garments (DeJonge, 1984; Lamb and Kallal, 1992 and Kaiser, 1997). In all, a prototype garment should be produced, tested
and corrected to meet the desired specifications of a design. A prototype garment is a garment made to specification of a design for the purpose of fitting using a cheaper fabric. The beginning of the production process after designing is the development of the patterns termed the block patterns.
The development of block patterns prior to garment construction is very crucial to a dress maker, since it provides opportunity for every correction to be effected after series of fitting using prototype garments on the figure before the final garment construction. Pattern drafting or development is the art of drawing and documenting all instructions needed for constructing a garment or any sewing project using a set of measurements (Weber, 1990; Igbo and Iloeje, 2003). All humans have peculiar shapes and sizes. Size and shape are crucial factors in pattern development. Aldrich (2006) asserted that size system in garments production is based on the body and not the garment; it is viewed in relation to clothing as a designation system which explains the manner in which a garment fits into the wearer. Decker (2007) defines size as the relative bigness, extent and series of standard measurement that are made and sold. No matter the function of any garment on the user, the size must be proportionate to the wearer to achieve the purpose for which it is constructed. Chase and Quinn (2003) noted people with disabilities have peculiar features and needs which should be taken care of in designing his or her garment at the pattern development stage.
Benue State like most other States of the federation is fast developing. Development and growth has its attendant characteristics and challenges. For instance due to population increase, Benue State has witnessed an increased need for transportation. The most popular and easiest modes of transportation for relatively short distances are the motor bikes popularly referred to as “going.” The use of motor bikes and other forms of transportation have increased the incidence of accident resulting in broken limbs (Acquired disabilities)
and even death. When motor bike accidents occur, the worst hits are those being carried since they have no firm grip on the bike. These victims could be females who rarely ride the bikes themselves but move from one area to another frequently.
Some females have diseases such as paralysis, arthritis and receive medical attention in different hospitals as well as from traditional bone fixers. Worthy of note is also the proneness of middle age females to bone breakage and paralysis than men. Osteoporosis; decreased density of bones resulting in bone fracture, easily is said to be more common among women especially of late to middle age (Kottke 1982). Other causes of wheelchair incapacitation for females include paralysis and stroke as a result of child birth. This makes it imperative for the need for functional clothing for this group of people. These individuals have their own garment needs which are a challenge for large scale manufacturers of clothes.
Statement of the Problem
Women with disabilities comprise a sizeable group and frequently subjected to multiple discrimination; both disability and gender based (Ikoni and Dura, 2011). They are among the vast number of physically challenged persons seeking recognition and integration into work force in Nigeria.
Recognizing that clothes (garments): the second skin are the next closest environment to human body, if the individual is deprived of the opportunity to wear choice garments as well as elaborate desired styles due to inability to move the limbs appropriately the woman with disability is disadvantaged. This aspect of the needs of women with disabilities is often neglected by garment producers. Thorén (1990), Carroll (2001) had noted that today’s clothing market is not adapted for people with unusual body dimensions and or different kinds of functional impairments.
In garment design, there is constant need for developing designs that are in consonance with current fashion. Fashion is dynamic and changes in garment styles reflect the mood, need and the current issues in a society. The physically challenged need to wear garments that are current in fashion hence current changes in fashion need to be reflected in the design of the garments
Commercial patterns that are made in Nigeria are not available. Commercial patterns specifically drafted for use in construction of functional garments for persons with disabilities are unavailable. Commercial patterns imported to Nigeria are devoid of essential features for direct translation into garments for persons with physical disabilities. Such patterns will require major alterations which can only be carried out by well-trained garment constructors. This poses a problem to garment constructors who are not conversant with pattern drafting prior to garment construction and the wearers.
There is disparity in the size, shape and figure type of the white and black females. For instance, size charts developed for white females are made to fit on the body silhouettes while size charts for African females is characterized by extra allowances for freeness. The implication is that, there is need for establishment of specific patterns for garments for the physically challenged black females using their own anthropometric measurements.
Physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females require special comfortable garment designs due to their peculiar shapes and sizes to attend to their daily activities. The presence of physical challenges/disabilities robs people of easy movement within their immediate environment as well as interaction with the society in terms of movement, emotional and psychological satisfaction with what they are wearing. Inappropriate garments styles worn for the listed activities hamper easy movement and optimum performance and accomplishment of the persons with physical disabilities.
Garments that provide accessibility for caregivers, relatives of persons with physical disabilities into body parts that require cleaning, medical care and help the caregivers to attend to the needs of the physically challenged person quicker and easier are not available in Benue State and in Nigeria. Persons with physical disabilities need to enjoy better services and less pain or inconveniences in garment usage. Garments with functional elements such as detachable portions, easy-to-handle fasteners enable the physically challenged person to attend to her daily activities with very little or no assistance from caregivers and relatives. However, it was observed that the existing garments worn by physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females in Benue State are devoid of these necessary design/style components. Physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females tie wrappers and normal garments that pose restrictions to their movements and hamper caregivers from accessing areas of their bodies that need medical care.
Added to the physical incapacitations, the hospitals are usually inadequately equipped to aid the PCWBF patients’ toileting easily and comfortably or changing their garments. Patients need to doff or don their clothes partially or totally for some medical treatment such as wound-dressing, physiotherapy as well as bathing and toileting. Sometimes the treatments are done inside the wards with scanty screening from the glare of other inmates, especially if the physically challenged or bedridden person is totally incapacitated.
Medical aids service providers are very few relative to patients on admission in the hospitals or rehabilitation centres. For instance, at the Federal Medical Centre Makurdi, in July 2007, the ratio of nurse to patient on admission especially at night was as 1: 20. It is difficult for these few number of nurses to attend adequately to the relatively larger number of patients without been over stressed and frustrated after a day’s work. In addition, some hospitals have formulated policies that disallow patients’ relatives from stay in hospitals with their patients due to lack of space and need to ensure hygienic environment. The
absence of patients’ relatives further compounds the problem of donning and doffing by the physically challenged and bedridden to attend to basic needs, while on admission in the hospital. Patients with broken bones, fractured limbs those with excessive weight require extra care to be attended to by relatives and caregivers when there is a need for donning and doffing their garments. Sitting on the wheelchair or bedridden could result in increased weight, stiffness of joints and weakness; compounding the difficulty of donning and doffing garments for the users and the care givers. Garments without special/ functional opening and closures pose more problems than garments with special/ functional opening and closures.
Non availability of functional garments that help PCWBF to attend to daily activities with much ease, and equally enable caregivers and relatives to assist the PCWBF with much ease is a problem in Benue State.
Although, researches on designs and developments of functional/special garments for persons with physical disabilities and people in different professions have been carried out in Nigeria, UK and USA, no specific researches have been carried out to develop functional garments for the PCWBF in Benue State, Nigeria. This gap needs ample attention, hence this study.
Purpose of the Study
The main purpose of the study was to develop functional garments for physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females (PCWBF) in Benue State.
Specifically, the study.
1. determined the activities of physically challenged wheelchair and bed ridden females (PCWBF) that characterise their garment needs in Benue State
2. determined garments types preferences of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females and the judges.
3. determined the characteristics of garment needed by physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females in Benue State
4. developed design features needed for the drafting of the patterns for garments for physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females
5. established average body measurements of different sizes of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females and grouped them into small, medium and large
6. developed pattern pieces for the three sizes (small, medium and large) of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females
7. produced constructed garments based on the adaptations of the basic patterns pieces developed
8. determined the appropriateness of the garments on the different sizes (small, medium, large) users by testing- fitting for fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive variables of the prototype functional garments
9. determined the judges’ ratings of the appropriateness of the garments in terms of fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive variables of the prototype functional garments
10. compared the ratings of the users and judges based on fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive variables of the prototype functional garments.
Research Questions:
The following seven research questions formed the basis of this study.
1. What are the activities of physically challenged wheelchair and bed ridden females
(PCWBF) that characterise their garment needs?
2. What types of garments are preferred by the physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females and the judges?
3. What are characteristics and design features of garments needed by physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females in Benue State
4. What design features (functional, aesthetic and expressive) are needed for the drafting of patterns for functional garments of PCWBF?
5. What are the average body measurements of the three sizes (small, medium, large) of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females needed for drafting patterns for functional garments?
6. What are the mean responses of the physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females (users) on fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive variables of the prototype functional garment?
7. What are the mean responses of the judges on aesthetics and expressive variables of the prototype functional garment?
Hypotheses
The following null hypotheses were tested for the study at a 0.05 level of significance.
Ho1: There is no significant difference in the mean responses of users and judges on the category of requirements that characterised garment needs of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females.
Ho2: There is no significant difference in the mean responses of judges (nurses and Clothing and Textile lecturers) on the aesthetic attributes of prototype functional garments required by PCWBF
Significance of the Study
The positive effect of garments on self-esteem, performance and productivity on persons with disabilities or physical challenges could be enhanced by use of functional garments. Physical disabilities vary, therefore the garment designs that will satisfy the needs of various users must be properly articulated to provide appropriate patterns for subsequent functional garment producers. Functional garments designs aim at fulfilling several functions beyond physical protection of the wearer: the satisfaction of fit, comfort, ease of mobility, acceptability, aesthetics and expressive attributes are inclusive. The considerations of these requirements in the design and development of the functional garments will address the yearnings of persons with disabilities in carrying out daily activities normally with less difficulties and reduce burden on their caregivers and relatives in Benue State, Nigeria.
This study is expected to provide information for the PCWBF and their caregivers on appropriate functional garments. The patterns will provide relevant base for garment producers; the patterns could influence garment manufacturing companies to develop further designs, produce the garments, fit-test on users and create a market niche for persons with disabilities in Benue Nigeria.
The findings of this study, specifically, will provide ready-made patterns for garment production sector of Nigeria economy. Garment production entrepreneurs will benefit from this study since the patterns could be used for mass production of functional garments. Sale of garments produced from the pattern will generate income for such entrepreneurs. The construction of garments will provide employment for the garment construction sector of economy.
The finding of this study is of great significance to the physically challenged wheelchair and bed ridden females in their homes as well as female in-patients. The use of the garments will provide comfort in clothing. Physical and emotional stability will be enjoyed by the physically challenged wheelchair bound and female in-patients since their
movement and participation in the larger society are enhanced. This research will help in providing a variety of suitable garments for a variety of activities for wheelchair bound females. The block patterns can be adapted to produce other interesting styles. The functional garments made using the results of this research will enable smooth operation by physically challenged wheelchair females as they get employment into the civil service.
The aged or elderly and the sick that may have incontinency problems in the use of toilet will also find the garment very helpful. This is because the garments designs also have Universal Design features. Their caregivers will enjoy some relief due to the design of the garment if used appropriately. Nurses (caregivers) and hospital maids will have fewer challenges in attending to the nursing needs of physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden patients especially if the designed garment are constructed and given to the patients. Such employees will face less stress in their work environments. Social workers who attend to garment needs of the physically challenged wheelchair and the bedridden will find their duty easier. Some of the advantages accruing from the use of functional garments will ameliorate the suffering of relatives of wheelchair and bedridden females. This is because, the users of such garments will experience less dependence on their relatives while donning and doffing, receiving medical attention, reaching out to pick some items, toileting by themselves.
The research will provide information for government and private health establishments. The government hospitals have employed garment constructors who do not have knowledge of pattern drafting but can use already made patterns. The drafted patterns resulting from this study will be used for constructing garments for the physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden female in- patients. The provision of the garments to this special group of patients will help the hospitals’ administration to achieve their policies about less involvement by patient’s relatives in the care of in -patients since such patients have greater independence on relatives and hospitals’ care givers and ward attendants. The
use of the functional garments could be introduced to patients in both private and government hospitals via clothing therapists in the hospitals.
Information obtained from this research will help the government to formulate policies in the hospitals that will ensure hygiene and safety of both the workers and the patients especially in relation to clothing. The findings from this study will aid Curriculum planners and the education sector. Schedule of practical for pattern drafting for clothing and textile students especially in tertiary institutions can be guided by the findings of this study. For instance the method of drafting the blocks in this study could be adopted in teaching pattern drafting in the tertiary institutions. The research findings can be compiled as a text book for teaching some courses in Home Economics in tertiary institution. The study of clothing needs of the physically challenged is important since there is a new impetus by the Nigeria government to integrate them into the main stream. The utilization of such materials will be achieved by direct recommendation to the Nigerian Educational Research and Development Council (NERDC) and National University Commission (NUC) which are responsible for reviewing and approving the curriculum of Secondary Schools and Universities respectively.
Delimitations
The study was delimited to adult females with physical challenges with restricted movement of the lower limbs that are wheelchair bound or bedridden. Full description of clinical ailments of the patients/ physically challenged wheelchair and bedridden females is beyond the scope of this study. A non- randomized selection of respondents was used for the garment needs assessment and appropriateness determination in the study. Hence, the findings of this study may be generalized only on the smaller population and the sample used within the geographical area covered. The study was delimited to three sizes (small, medium, large) according to the measurements utilized for the study and the styles and quality of the garments developed.
This material content is developed to serve as a GUIDE for students to conduct academic research
DEVELOPMENT OF FUNCTIONAL GARMENTS FOR PHYSICALLY CHALLENGED WHEELCHAIR AND BEDRIDDEN FEMALES IN BENUE STATE>
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